THE PIONEERS OF GLUTEN-FREE CRAFT BEER
In the years since its inception, Ground Breaker Brewing has not only redefined what gluten-free beer can be, but also shattered preconceptions about the limitations of craft brewing. Their story serves as an inspiration to aspiring brewers and a beacon of hope for those seeking gluten-free options without compromising on taste. We recently had the opportunity to interview co-founder James Neumeister, and he was happy to talk to us about his craft-brewing journey!
Can you share the inspiration behind starting Ground Breaker Brewing and the process that led to its establishment?
I was homebrewing in 2009 when a friend was diagnosed with celiac disease. She brought the macro beer that was available at the time over to my house and I offered to make her craft beer instead. My first attempt was a complete failure and that hooked me. I was looking for a new career, one that was rewarding. I had been working in manufacturing but not for anything that would make my friends and family happy. My first action was to learn everything I could about Celiac disease. I quickly figured out that my wife’s family had undiagnosed Celiac disease. My wife had a life-long rash doctors couldn’t figure out, frequently used an inhaler, and we had failed to conceive a child for five years. Her father suffered from MS and died from colon cancer. Within days of adopting a gluten free diet her rash was gone and the slightest slipup made it return. She stopped using her inhaler daily. About 6 weeks after “going gluten free,” much to our surprise, she was pregnant. I was convinced that the world wanted gluten free craft beer and I went to work full time developing recipes and opening the brewery as a fully-fledged business.
In April of 2023, Ground Breaker Brewing announced the promotion of Gloria Zeiger as Head Brewer. She is the third head brewer to lead the brewery in its twelve year history and the first woman!
"As a person with celiac disease, the world of beer has been so exciting to learn about and grow in. I hope to brew classic styles and modern takes of great beer using nontraditional ingredients so everyone can enjoy it." - Zeiger.
What were the key challenges you faced when pioneering gluten-free brewing, and how did you overcome them?
Being the very first gluten free brewery in the United States meant that we had to find our own way in many cases. You couldn’t just call up a gluten free malting company and order a variety of different safe malts. We worked with a local farmer to get small chips of chestnuts that we roasted ourselves to brew our early beers. Basic recipes and practices didn’t exist, we created them.
How does Ground Breaker Brewing ensure the quality and integrity of its gluten-free products, from sourcing ingredients to the brewing process?
One of the main ways we ensure that we offer safe gluten free products is by going through the challenging process of being certified gluten free. Ground Breaker is one of only two certified gluten free breweries in the United States (the other being Holidaily in Colorado). We keep detailed records of our processes, practices, and procedures and are frequently audited by the Gluten-Free Certification Organization (GFCO) to make sure we are always in compliance. We try to work with as many certified gluten free vendors as possible to cut down on the amount of testing we must do per batch of beer. The GFCO gives each ingredient a threat assessment which determines how carefully we must handle it and whether we must test it individually or just when incorporated into a recipe at different stages.
Can you elaborate on the types of gluten-free grains and ingredients used in your brewing process and how they contribute to the distinct flavor profiles of your beers?
We are lucky that gluten free malting has developed since the brewery started. Originally, we were using house-roasted chestnuts and lentils to impart protein and flavor. Now, we have so many choices of malted rice and millet to choose from. Of course, figuring out the ratio and roast of different millet/quinoa/rice/buckwheat grains in each beer is a balancing act depending on the style we want to achieve.
In what ways does Ground Breaker Brewing foster a sense of community and inclusivity, particularly for individuals with celiac disease or gluten sensitivities?
We maintain a gluten-free taproom as well, which shares the brewery experience of food and fun that gluten-free people often miss out on. We try to place our beer in as many other brewery taprooms as possible so our customers can be included in the brewpub experience when going out in a group. Also, we often host club events and classes, such as the GIG (Gluten Intolerance Group) of Portland monthly meetings. We are proud to say that the Zero Tolerance Homebrew Club was founded in our taproom but has grown to be an international club that is now mainly based online.
What role do local partnerships and collaborations play in the brewery's ethos and its connection to the Portland community?
We love the beer community in Portland and have close working relationships with many other Portland-area breweries. We have been fortunate to brew collaborations with brewers like Ben Edmunds of Breakside Brewing and Max and Cam of Montavilla Brew Works. We share our knowledge of unusual grains with them and they teach us innovative hopping techniques or trendy styles, such as Breakin' the Haze Hazy IPA with Breakside or Head in the Clouds IPA with MBW. When there is so much local knowledge about beer, we try to look to our neighbors to create awesome beer.
Could you share some insights into the feedback and reactions you've received from customers who may have initially been skeptical about gluten-free beer?
It isn’t uncommon for people to cry tears of joy in our taproom. They just can’t believe they can sit down to a taster tray with 9 different delicious beers and order anything they want from the food menu.
Check out Marlene's selection of core varieties and watch for seasonal releases!
How does Ground Breaker Brewing stay innovative in the craft beer industry, and what can we expect in terms of new and exciting offerings in the future?
Continuous improvement! While beer has been brewed with barley for around 5000 years, we have been brewing beer without it for only 14 years. There is so much room to grow and learn and improve. Ingredient suppliers keep opening and/or coming out with new ingredients we can incorporate. We do R&D batches and release them in our own taproom several times every month. Our beers are constantly getting better. The beer we make in 2024 will be substantially better than the beer we made in 2023 and I think we made some incredibly delicious beer in 2023.
From a personal perspective, what has been the most rewarding aspect of being a pioneer in the gluten-free craft beer movement?
It is still exciting to hand someone a craft beer when they have not enjoyed one in years. Often, we serve people who have not had beer since their diagnosis of Celiac. Every time we can share quality craft beer with someone who thought that their beer drinking days were behind them, it fills my heart.
Cheers to innovation, inclusivity, and the pursuit of great taste!
